Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the Nageshwar temple has a stone garbhagriha or sanctum sanctorum that appears to have been built during the Yadava reign. (Express Photo by Pavan Khengre)
Among the congested lanes in a densely built part of Somwar Peth, there looms an arched stone entrance, with a nagarkhana on top.
Step in, and you find yourself in an an open, spacious courtyard where a temple has stood for seven centuries. The Nageshwar temple is considered one of the oldest such temples in Pune, an architectural marvel that reveals the city’s evolution. To this day, it is a living heritage of the city and is visited by large numbers of people, especially during the holy months.
Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the Nageshwar temple has a stone garbhagriha or sanctum sanctorum that appears to have been built during the Yadava reign. The sabha mandap or assembly hall made of teak, however, follows the Peshwa style of architecture.
As a result, the temple carries the architectural signatures of two different eras under one roof.
It is believed that the temple was renovated in the 18th century by Aba Shelukar, a wealthy moneylender.
As people sit in groups around the temple, it is possible to imagine another era – when there used to be a kunda or water reservoir, known as Nagatirtha on the premises. It was traditional for devotees to visit the temple before their pilgrimage to the Ganga in Varanasi and after returning, when they would pour the Ganga water into the kunda. The reservoir was sealed by the Pune Municipal Corporation several years ago.
The temple’s high cultural, spiritual and religious significance is found in its mention in Saint Namdev’s writings. According to the cultural datatbase Sahapedia, “It is believed that Sant Tukaram’s in-laws stayed in a village called Lohegaon near the Nageshwar Mandir. Whenever he visited them, he used to host kirtans (devotional songs) at the shrine. These performances were so popular that they drew crowds from surrounding villages.”
The temple was last restored by the PMC in the mid-2000s. Today, devotees offer their prayers to the main deity and the other shrines on the premises. Above them, in the main temple, are intricately carved ceilings, around them are fine wood carvings, beautiful deepstambhs and design elements such as banana flowers.