How this Pune eatery is preserving a vanishing Kashmiri culinary tradition
Matamaal—which translates to ‘Grandmother’s Home’, was originally founded in Gurugram in 2015 by Surender and Nalini Sadhu who are themselves Kashmiri Pandits.
The Kashmiri Wazwan Thali consists of gushtaba, seekh kabab, rogan josh, tabakh mazz, rista, yakhni and gande chetin. (Express photo) Written by Vishakha Toshniwal and Ananya Shetty
A cup of Kahwa, a plate of rich Rogan Josh, and fresh breads baked in a traditional tandoor – these are exactly what most diners expect when they walk into a Kashmiri restaurant. However, what they are usually tasting is just one side of the region’s culinary coin: The Wazwan food. At Matamaal, the goal is to shift that narrative by introducing food lovers to the lesser-known, equally rich heritage of Kashmiri Pandit cuisine.
While both culinary styles share a love for meat and identical geography, they are worlds apart in execution. Wazwan is the elaborate, multi-course feast traditionally prepared by Muslim master chefs (wazas) for weddings, heavily relying on onions, garlic, and minced meat. Conversely, authentic Kashmiri Pandit cuisine completely eschews onion, tomato, and garlic. Instead, it builds deep, complex flavours using asafoetida (hing), dry ginger, fennel powder, and curd—a distinct home-cooked culinary tradition that largely vanished from the public eye after the community’s exodus from the valley in 1990.
At Matamaal, the goal is to present Kashmir, as it is, by introducing food lovers to the lesser-known Kashmiri Pandit cuisine along with the widely famous Wazwan dishes.
Kawa is a traditional and aromatic green tea originating from the Kashmir Valley. (Express photo)
Recognizing a gap in Western India’s culinary market, the Sadhu’s decided to bring the brand to Pune, to spread the warmth of Kashmiri cuisine and culture in the city.
The Sadhu’s, with a decade of hospitality experience wanted to introduce the locals in pune to an authentic, non-adapted version of Kashmiri cuisine. Four years ago, they established Pune’s standalone Matamaal outlet, tucked away in the bustling neighbourhood of Wakad, right behind Phoenix Mall.
“Before this, Kashmiri Pandit cuisine simply wasn’t available in commercial restaurants; it was a closely guarded secret made only inside Kashmiri homes.” says Nilesh Rane, the manager who operates the Pune restaurant along with catering in the region and has been instrumental in localising the brand in the region.
Nadhur Monje (left) also known as lotus stem fritters and Mutton Rogan Josh mutton which is prepared in Kashmiri red chilli gravy. (Express photo)
To cater to all palates, the Sadhus’ Pune outlet serves both Kashmiri Pandit delicacies and Wazwaan specialities. For first-time visitors, the curated thalis available in vegetarian, chicken, and mutton variants are the most popular gateway. They offer a seamless transition from starters to mains, accompanied by traditional breads like chochworu, sheer chai (salted pink tea), and desserts like shufta (a rich mix of dry fruits and honey).
“Pune was a natural choice for expansion because the city is a major IT and educational hub with a sizable Kashmiri community, but they only make up about 30% of our customer base,” says the award-winning Chef Nalini. “The remaining 70% consists of Maharashtrian, Bengali, Gujarat and South Indian food lovers who are eager to experiment”
Today, with the brand expanding across India with outlets in Gurgaon, Noida, South Delhi & Pune, and upcoming projects in Mumbai, Kolkata and Bengaluru, Matamaal is doing more than just serving meals. In a city where diners are increasingly looking past generic ‘North India’ menus, this Wakad eatery offers a genuine, delicious slide of history that almost disappeared from India’s food map.
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