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Hope, doubt and questions seep Kolhapur after Prada deal

Artisans say that the agreement is a good first step, but their main worry is getting direct pay.

Kolhapur slippersArtisans fear the work might only go to a few government centers, skipping the very craftsmen who keep the tradition alive. (Express Photo/Pavan Khengre)

Written by Meenakshi Jawale and Dipanita Nath

As news spread across Kolhapur that luxury brand Prada signed an MoU with Sant Rohidas Leather Industries and Charmakar Development Corporation (LIDCOM) and Dr Babu Jagjivan Ram Leather Industries Development Corporation (LIDKAR), to make 2,000 pairs of limited edition sandals, there was hope and some questions.

Artisans say that the agreement is a good first step, but their main worry is getting direct pay. They fear the work might only go to a few government centers, skipping the very craftsmen who keep the tradition alive.

“The work should not stay limited to just LIDCOM. All the artisans in the Kolhapur district should benefit. The work should reach every artisan who has the ability to deliver the required quality,” says Rohit Govali, the owner of Tiptop Footwear in Chappal Galli, the main Kolhapuri chappal market, and an artisan connected with LIDCOM.

In Kolhapur, the craftsmen say that the struggle is closely tied to giving respect to their high-skill, handmade product. In Kolhapur, the craftsmen say that the struggle is closely tied to giving respect to their high-skill, handmade product. (Express Photo/Pavan Khengre)

Ravindra Pawar of Ravindra Footwear, which has been operating for 40 years, strongly asks for work for skilled artisans: “The order should go to the artisans. Currently, the government has two manufacturing units… but who will complete the order? The artisans will.”

He points out the capacity of established units: “LIDCOM should not only give the work to the craftsmen they have but also work with independent artisans (like me).”

For Lalit Gandhi, President of the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce Industries and Agriculture, the deal is the culmination of intense efforts. “We were fighting to protect the artisans and get them full credit for their work. Prada has accepted all our demands in this respect. Now, Kolhapuri chappals will be seen in the global market. A new market has opened for us. Since Prada is putting an official tag on the Kolhapuri chappals, other brands will be more open to us. This will benefit the artisans,” says Gandhi.

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Fight against low pricing

In Kolhapur, the artisans say that the struggle is closely tied to giving respect to their high-skill, handmade product. The artisans agree that they need respect, not bargaining.

“The art that is created by the hands of the artisans, through years of experience and hard work—there should be no bargaining for that art,” says Sanjay Tapase, a young entrepreneur in the leather footwear trade.

Looking ahead, artisans see the global focus as a chance to secure the craft's future by bringing in new, younger talent. (Express Photo/Pavan Khengre) Looking ahead, artisans see the global focus as a chance to secure the craft’s future by bringing in new, younger talent. (Express Photo/Pavan Khengre)

Looking ahead, the artisans see the global focus as a chance to secure the craft’s future by bringing in new, younger talent. Tapase notes the lack of youth in the traditional trade: “Currently, the actual workers are mostly in their 70s. The younger generation is only a handful. Newer generations should be encouraged to enter this field.”

The hope is that guaranteed, high-paying global orders will renew interest among the youth, making sure the Kolhapuri chappal’s 800-year history is carried forward by the next generation.


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