Hidden Stories: Pune’s oldest perfumers who once served the Nawab of Hyderabad

Damodardas and Bhagwandas was officially established on April 10, 1872. (Special Arrangement)

Origins: From Vadnagar bankers to Peshwa perfumers

The family did not begin in Pune. They were originally from Vadnagar in Gujarat, a community of Nagar Brahmins who had once been bankers. Their history is linked to an older period when Shahaji Maharaj is said to have given them land in Satara. Several Nagar families were settled there for banking work. During Shivaji Maharaj’s time, they were involved in money exchange, almost like an early form of forex business.

This work continued until the time of Sambhaji Maharaj, after which the region became unstable and looting increased. The family then moved through Wai and Pandharpur, and finally came to Pune when the Peshwa era brought stability at the end of the 1 th century.

At first, life in Pune was difficult. The family did not have many means of earning. Since they already understood banking and accounts, they took up accounting work and small jobs in different firms. But success was limited. Then came a turning point through a woman connected to Damodardas’s wife, known in the Peshwa records as Lachhu Sugandhi’s Pedhi. Through this connection, the family learned the art of making incense sticks. Around 1820 to 1822, they entered the incense business, and this became the foundation of the brand that would last for generations.

Their first workshop was in the area that is now known as Ravivar Peth, where a weekly market used to be held on Sundays. Because the market is open every Sunday, the incense made during the week sold easily. Demand grew steadily. By the 1860s, the business had grown large enough to employ around 40 women, all hand-rolling incense sticks.

As the business expanded, the family realised they needed a formal structure. Damodardas was ageing, and there was still no direct heir. So Bhagwandas was called from Mumbai and brought into the trade. That is how the partnership firm truly took shape in 1872. A document from that period mentions April 10 as the founding date.

The company then grew beyond Pune. During the colonial period, its incense reached Hyderabad, and even the Nawab of Hyderabad was among its customers. The business also became known for making incense sticks of unusual lengths, including one foot, one and a quarter feet, and even two and a half feet.

These long incense sticks were considered special at the time. Thick sticks, as wide as a little finger, became popular because they had no competition and were often used for new temple openings and important religious occasions. Over time, the trade spread further, reaching Kabul and even Persia (now Iran), showing that export had been part of the business from an early stage.

Global reach: Exporting to Persia and London in 1920s

Later, the next generations carried the business forward with care. By 1926, the family had records showing exports to London. Their incense reached stores there, and the family even began experimenting with new ideas. In London, Yardley and Bush companies invited them to understand fragrance tours and modern scent trends.

Since the British market was interested in fancy perfumes and raw fragrance materials, the family was encouraged to adapt traditional incense for new tastes. That led to innovation in products like lavender incense and other fancy incense types, which could be called the early cousins of today’s premium incense.

Today, this is the sixth generation of the family business. Devendra Tribhuvan Das Sugandhi leads the story now, and his nephew, Harsh Purushottam Sugandhi, is slowly entering the trade after the family faced a loss when Devendra’s elder brother passed away during the Covid period. The next generation is already preparing to take over.

Devendra Tribhuvan Das Sugandhi and his nephew, Harsh Purushottam Sugandhi. (Express Photo)

Owner Devendra Sugandhi said, “What makes the brand different is its USP. It has kept its old formulas but updated the fragrance to suit modern tastes. The old scent style was rooted in musk and amber, which was traditional and familiar to older users. Today’s younger buyers often prefer foreign-style perfumes and spray fragrances. Instead of copying those products, our family has created a twist within the traditional framework. This keeps the soul of the old product alive while making it attractive to a new audience.”

The future of fragrance

The business today focuses mainly on incense sticks, but it also makes dhoop sticks, attar, and ashtagandh. In attar, the family blends its own fragrances. Some raw materials come from Kannauj, especially henna and rose attar, but the final blending is done in-house in Pune. That gives the products a distinct identity. The attars are mostly natural, with very little or no synthetic content. The family has remained faithful to traditional fragrance-making while giving each product its own character.

Among the incense varieties, Paanadi is the fastest-selling and most iconic product. Old favourites like Kasturi Amber and Rajdarbari still remain important. Amber is stronger than musk, while in the six-number version, amber and musk are balanced with a slight amber edge.

Owner Devendra Sugandhi told The Indian Express, “The market has changed a great deal, especially after Covid. Young buyers now want better packaging, cleaner design, and products they can gift. Fragrance is no longer only for Pooja. It is also used for personal gifting and corporate gifting. To respond to this shift, our company has hired a packaging agency and redesigned its look.”

“Sales now come largely through the website, and online business makes up about 30 per cent of total sales. There are also international clients in Europe, around 16 of them, while the USA, Canada, and Australia receive regular shipments, though in smaller volumes. Pune once had only six incense makers. Now the number is around 70.”

He added, “The season begins when the Palkhi leaves Pune, and Diwali brings a strong rise in gift box sales. The prices start at about 1600 rupees per kilogram for masala incense. Raw material costs have risen sharply by 20 per cent to 40 per cent, and essential oils have become more expensive due to the Russia-Ukraine war and rising gas prices. Still, the business remains stable. It uses only natural and sustainable materials, follows BIS (Bureau of Indian Standards) 6 standards, and avoids wasteful ingredients that can cause breathing problems.”

It shows how a family can carry an old tradition across centuries and still make a fragrance that feels fresh for the present and sustainable future.

Vaishnavi Gujar is an intern with The Indian Express.