By: SHIKHA KUMAR
DELHI-BASED designer Sumit Sawhney has given jewellery adorned by tribals a ‘royal’ twist. “Tribal jewellery pieces are generally earthy while royal ones feature lots of gemstones,” says Sawhney, who has tried to blend both these distinct styles in his collection titled ‘The Royal Tribe — An Evolution’. The collection consists of necklaces like hasli (a thick pipe-like piece that the Kutch Rabari tribes wear) and head accessories. He has added some innovative pieces like centrebridge (worn between the eyes).
“I don’t have a regular clasp for the necklaces — there is an extended accessory at the back that can enhance the look of an outfit with a deep back,” he says. Made of silver, the jewellery plays on animal motifs like lion and peacock. His favourite is a tribal empress neckpiece: a choker, with a layer of polki adorned by crescent moons, inspired by an African tribe.
Bride in focus
A TRIP to Jaipur’s Rambagh Palace for a wedding fuelled Hyderabad-based Moni Agarwal’s interest in Rajasthani jewellery. After researching on the life of Meera, who was a Rajasthani princess, she came up with Meeravali, her latest collection. “Meera had a mind of her own,” says Agarwal, who shows a deep inclination towards kundan work. With a range of necklaces, earrings, waistbands, anklets and haathphools, Meeravali’s focus is on young brides “who want to look elegant, and not overly decked up”. She has lent a modern touch to the pieces. For instance, Bhor, a kind of headgear, is embellished with pearls and emeralds. However, it’s a layered kundan set, that fills up the whole neck, which epitomises her newest collection.
Celebration of women
KNOWN for her diamond pieces, Farah Khan’s muse for her collection Quaintrelle is the contemporary woman. “I wanted to look at women and their multiple roles. Quaintrelle stands for someone who lives life passionately,” says Khan. Her focus has been the juxtaposition of jewels — using stones in softer pastel shades as well as deeper hues. Her collection consists of gemstones in varied colour combinations, set in rose, white and yellow gold. Apart from bracelets, her signature chandelier earrings reflect the thought behind her collection. Her emphasis is on pret.
Love as a motif
WITH a degree in medicine, Delhi-based Preeti Jain’s foray into jewellery was rather unanticipated. She happened to design a ring for her mother, who loved it. Her mother pushed her to pursue designing and Jain went on to acquire a degree from the International Gemology Institute. Her collection ‘Amor’ is for women who love themselves. “I meet so many strong, independent women who love wearing jewellery,” says Jain. Amor features a range of necklaces, chunky bracelets, chandbali earrings and cocktail earrings set in 18-carat gold. A fan of invisible setting (where gemstones are set together to give the illusion of not using metal), she set up a manufacturing process for the same in India. Since love is synonymous with red, an elaborate necklace with rubies and solitaires is the piece that she believes sums up her collection.