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Monday, July 16, 2018

Short of Perfect

Larger portions and better pricing might make Nico Bombay a popular haunt in South Mumbai

Written by Meenakshi Iyer | Published: October 13, 2013 5:33:41 am

It’s a delight to watch Kala Ghoda attempting to reclaim its title as the cultural hub of the city. With a slew of galleries,design stores and restaurants popping up in the neighbourhood,one hopes it will be able to relive its glory in bits from the ’70s. The latest addition to this list is ex-VJ Kamal Sidhu and her husband Nico Goghavala’s Mediterranean restaurant,Nico Bombay,

after the couple shuttered a similar property in Sri Lanka.

Ornate chandeliers,large spotted mirrors,warm lights and whitewashed wooden floor that lend Nico Bombay an intimate feel. The smooth jazz music playing in the background makes it a perfect date-night setting.

At first,we would have preferred a seat at the bar,not only for the classy selection of spirits but also because the stools seemed more comfortable than the suede chairs we sat on. Though guests kept pouring in,our service remained quick throughout the night — a big plus in a city like Mumbai.

Upon the server’s recommendation,we opted for Goat Cheese and Caramelised Onion Sour Cream Puff

(Rs 325) and Crab Pumpkin Blossom Beignets (Rs 350) — crabmeat wrapped in pumpkin leaves and deep-fried. One could smell the ocean from a distance when the beignets were being served and a bite into it sealed the deal. The puffs that came topped with goat cheese and caramelised onion were crunchy,but could have been less buttery. The one-page menu at Nico Bombay also lists a number of other Mediterranean mezze offerings but the portion size of almost every dish was rather tiny.

For mains,a Pan-seared Rockfish with Clams and Swiss chard (Rs 550) was tempting. Nico Bombay’s love for local produce was evident in their selection of fish,though we would have preferred the sauce on our dish to have been less salty. The menu also features several varieties of Neapolitan flatbread — traditional pizzas baked in a wood-fired oven as they do in Naples.

For desserts,we were drawn to Caramelised Apples with Crème Anglaise and Apple Cinnamon Parfait (Rs 450),which came dressed prettily with candied star fruit. The tiny balls of apple were perfectly sugared but the crispy puff that the apples were served on was again too buttery and slightly tedious to get our way around with. Since desserts are where we seek comfort,we went for a safe White Chocolate Amoretti Cheesecake with Pomegranate Jam (Rs 450) and devoured it in less than a minute.

This bar-cum-bistro has managed to infuse the right amount of opulence into its decor while maintaining its casual look. The menu is in accordance to the latest trend of serving Mediterranean cuisine but the meal falls short of being perfect,especially considering their pricing. We suggest you pick a Friday or a relaxed Saturday evening for a visit to either enjoy some funk and soul music or hang around at the bar.

Meal for two: Rs 2,500 (without alcohol)

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