‘I don’t agree with luxury brands that hide the ‘Made in India’ label’: Italian designer Elio Ferraro who presents his collection in Mumbai

The collection featured about 35 pieces — dresses, lehengas, blouses, ponchos, kaftans, and jackets layered over silk saris by Kaysons — embellished with beads, zardozi, embroidery, crystals and sequins of various shapes and sizes. (L) At the crescendo stood a one-piece dress inspired by peacock. (Express Photo)

The collection is an outcome of the Sicily-born designer’s long engagement with India. Ferraro has been travelling to the country for nearly a decade, immersing himself in its crafts and textiles. He speaks particularly admiringly of Banaras, which he compares to Italy’s Como and France’s Lyon for its silk textile heritage calling them “world’s three silk capitals”, with Banarasi brocade silk being displayed prominently in his collection.

Moving from Sicily to Florence and onto the global stage, Ferraro found in India not just inspiration but a creative partner. “The choice of ‘Gate to India’ as the title of this collection expresses my gratitude to a country that has become my alternative professional headquarters over the past few years,” said Ferraro, who has held design positions at Emilio Pucci and Salvatore Ferragamo.

The collection comprises entirely unique pieces, a philosophy that has attracted celebrities including Rihanna and Victoria Beckham.

Handwork, he emphasised, is central to his practice. “Crystals, sequins and other materials are always applied individually.

Embroideries are developed with patience and precision. Time is an essential component of each piece,” he said. Paisley motifs, a symbol deeply rooted in Indian heritage, recur throughout the embroidery. The pattern, he says, has travelled across cultures for centuries in his work and becomes a point of connection between India and the Mediterranean.

Emphasising that the value of a garment lies not only in how it looks, but in how it is made, he said, “To me, luxury is represented by uniqueness, not price. My meticulous search for the highest quality, achieved through the work of experienced craftsmen, is the focus of my practice, and I believe India is the ideal country in the world to achieve that.”

Ferraro also expressed disagreement with luxury brands that obscure Indian craftsmanship. “I do not agree with those so-called luxury brands that hide the ‘Made in India’ label, finishing products elsewhere and then stating ‘Made in France’ or wherever,” he said, adding that he has been working with craftsmen since the beginning of his Indian journey and proudly credits them. “This collection is dedicated to India and its beautiful textile and craft.”

The evening extended beyond fashion into cultural diplomacy. “This event embodies the essence of our diplomatic mission — to build bridges not just of trade, but of shared vision and human connection,” said Consul General of Italy, Walter Ferrara. “When Elio Ferraro’s Sicilian spirit dialogues with India’s master weavers, we witness not just a collection, but the future of Indo-Italian relations.”