In Your Neighbourhood: Mumbai is home to 179-year-old surma brand, here’s how they managed to keep this dying art alive across globe

“One day, an old man refused charity and asked instead for a warm meal,” Banatwalla said. She agreed, fed him, and when he finished, the man handed her a few pieces of paper. He asked her to study them and make the products described within, promising they would sustain her family for seven generations.

Established in 1847, Mumbai-based Khojati is among India’s oldest surma makers. (Express Photo by Amit Chakravarty)

The prophecy came true

For nearly a century, the family made just one product: surma. It was initially sold from their home, then came a shop, and soon they were available outside mosques, at attar stores, and eventually across Bombay and beyond. So widely did it travel that Banatwalla’s ancestor began being called ‘Ti’ by customers in Kerala, one of the brand’s largest markets, which contributed nearly 20 per cent of domestic sales.

When Budhia’s sons, Datu Manji and Hasham Manji, parted ways, the elder retained the Budhia name, while Hasham combined khoja (the community they belong to) and ti to create Khojati.

“The formulations, however, remain exactly the same,” Banatwalla said, adding that over the years, the family has also expanded their offering to include a wide range of ointments, pain relief and massage oils, eye drops, and skincare products, among others. His father is a certified hakim with a BUMS (Bachelor of Unani Medicine and Surgery) degree.

Keeping a dying art alive

But surma, he admits, is a dying art.

The first major blow came in the 1990s, when reports linked surma to lead poisoning. “Surma comes from an ore,” he explained. “It takes us two weeks to process it. It is soaked in rose water and treated repeatedly to remove lead. We also add ingredients with cooling and therapeutic properties.” Among their offerings are ‘moti surma’, made with finely crushed Basra pearls, and ‘mamira surma’, using Himalayan mamira root. For the past three decades, every batch has undergone lab testing. “All our surmas and kajals are FDA approved,” he added.

There are other misconceptions, too. “People say surma spreads,” Banatwalla said, adding, “It does, because it’s natural. But look at the chemicals in waterproof kajals!” Poor hygiene during application, he added, often leads to complaints. He demonstrates the correct method: use minimal product, apply to one eye, wipe the stick clean before dipping it again.

Despite these challenges, sales haven’t dwindled. Banatwalla, who joined the business in 1995, expanded distribution across India and overseas — first to Nigeria, Saudi Arabia and Dubai, and now to 16 countries. Africa, Indonesia and the Middle East are particularly strong markets. The company sells 80-90 lakh units annually, priced between Rs 40 (for 1 gm) and Rs 90 (for 5 gm).

“Most surma sold outside mosques is usually ours,” he said. Today, the brand operates two manufacturing units — one in Wai, near Panchgani, and another in Nashik. Going ahead, they plan to set up facilities in Nigeria and North Africa.

The plan ahead

Post-Covid, Banatwalla noticed another shift. “The younger generation doesn’t use surma,” he said. “They spend far more on kajal, which is essentially chemical-laden eyeliner.” Traditionally, he explained, kajal is made by burning oil or ghee, a practice once common in Indian homes. “Everything else is eyeliner.”

To stay relevant, Khojati is now rethinking its approach. “We’ve never focused on surmadanis or contemporary packaging,” Banatwalla said. “Maybe it’s time to present surma in a way that excites a new generation.”