Food critics, however, have questioned the exclusion of iconic non-vegetarian dishes.
“It does not make sense. I had a look at the list, the one that stands out the most is spice in the list of cuisines from Rae Bareli. How is spice a cuisine?” questioned Pushpesh Pant, food critic and historian.
“… There is hapsi halwa from Rampur, which is again not a cuisine… Reori is there from Lucknow, which is a sweet,” said Pant, who is finalising his memoir on Lucknow food.
Pointing to the range of meat dishes in Lucknow apart from Galauti Kababs, he added, “there are Kakori Kababs or Char Magaj ka murga, which is a typical Awadh dish made in Kayastha houses of Lucknow.”
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He further said, “Even the Government of India admits that 68% of the population is non-vegetarian and moreover, these are across class and creed, not just Muslims but Dalits, Kayasthas and even Kashmiri Brahmins, Maithli Brahmins or Saraswat Brahmins of Goa. Moreover, you cannot [define] food… with man-made boundaries. For instance, Lahore and Amritsar are twin cities when it comes to food.”
Writer Himanshu Bajpai from Lucknow, who performs Dastangoi across the world, said the omission was surprising. “I am a vegetarian, but when a list of popular cuisines is prepared, the non-inclusion of Galauti Kabab, known worldwide for its ‘melt-in-the-mouth’ texture, comes as a surprise.”
He also called for clarity on the selection process: “If the aim is to promote lesser-known dishes, that is understandable. But if there is any bias in food selection, it should be explained.”
When asked about the selection criteria, Micro, Small and Medium Enterprises (MSME) Minister Rakesh Sachan told The Indian Express that “it is a flexible list which can be upgraded based on public opinion and suggestions”.
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“The list is flexible. The scheme has been approved by the Cabinet, but the list of cuisines can be changed any time based on local recommendations and public demand, with approval from the Chief Minister. It does not require Cabinet approval,” he said.
He added that a district-level committee was formed in all 75 districts, chaired by District Magistrates and including teachers, professors, and local experts, and they made these recommendations. “Surveys were also conducted… It is based on these recommendations that this list was decided, the task was not easy,” Sachan said.
On the absence of non-vegetarian dishes, he said, “It is not intentional. If recommended in the future, they can be added. The idea is not to promote individual popular items but dishes that benefit a larger population through packaging, sales, and promotion.”
Incentives under the scheme
The government, meanwhile, is preparing incentives to support identified cuisines and their makers.
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Sources said the government will provide upto 25% subsidy for setting up new units (up to Rs 20 lakh) and assistance in packaging, marketing, and branding.
For instance, if a halwai wants to participate in a “haat” or an exhibition, then the government would offer support up to Rs 75,000 for national events and up to Rs 4 lakh for international events.
According to sources, the government is also planning a food conclave in Lucknow, where local halwais and culinary experts will be invited to promote these cuisines. However, it is still unclear whether non-vegetarian cooks will be included.
Regional food mapping
As per the list, each of Uttar Pradesh’s 18 divisions has been mapped with signature foods ranging from sweets and snacks to staple dishes.
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- The Agra division is represented by its globally known petha, dal moth and gajak
- Mathura is identified with peda and makhan mishri.
- Eastern Uttar Pradesh features rustic and traditional food such as litti-chokha in Gorakhpur, thekua in Basti, and sattu-based dishes in allia.
- The Varanasi division highlights cultural staples like Banarasi paan, thandai, and tiranga barfi.
- Western districts such as Meerut and Muzaffarnagar are noted for gajak, rewari, and jaggery-based products.
The list also underlines region-specific specialties such as dal bafla in Jhansi; bedami puri in Prayagraj; and kalakand in Aligarh. Unique local products like black rice dishes in Chandauli and amla-based products in Pratapgarh have also been included.
Officials said the attempt was “to capture both popular and lesser-known culinary traditions”.
