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The Depressed Brownie

Khan Market has another new restaurant,but before you put on your high heels and hobble down to the dug-up middle-lane of one of the world’s most expensive markets

Written by Sharon Fernandes |
May 7, 2011 3:39:10 am

Dim lights and rubbery squid rings — the new restaurant,Toro,gives us enough reasons to stay away

Khan Market has another new restaurant,but before you put on your high heels and hobble down to the dug-up middle-lane of one of the world’s most expensive markets,take some time to think of the choice at hand. The new place has a Spanish name and the cuisine is a mix of Mediterranean and Oriental,so maybe you want to slow down and think again about what you exactly feel like eating for dinner,because Toro,it seems has a lot of options.

We walked up a long flight of stairs to find ourselves in a poorly lit restaurant,with a display kitchen that looked like a glass prison; all the chefs had their noses pressed to the glass,watching an IPL match on a TV fixed on the adjacent wall.

A maître d’ pointed us to a table and gave us a four-page menu. With the dim lights overhead,reading the verbose menu was a task,and we squinted through each dish and its two-three line description.

After 15 minutes of sifting through 40-odd options,we finally ordered. The Crème Di Pomodoro (Rs 195),a tomato and basil soup,was fresh and tangy. The chicken and mushroom broth (Rs 195),however,was like looking at the bottom of a kitchen sink,a mash of mushrooms and slivers of boiled chicken,with only salted water to slurp up.

The appetisers,Calamari Fritti (Rs 325) was a generous heap,but after a tug of war with the stubborn rubbery squid rings,we gave our teeth a rest. We tried our luck with another appetiser,Chicken Taipei (Rs 325) — it was bright red with the promised herbs barely visible beyond the glare of chicken dunked in food colour. But if you ignored the flaming red,it tasted spicy and well cooked. The California Sushi Roll (Rs 575),however,was a mess. One piece was just a lump of rice,with a piece of salmon in the middle,no nori sheet,no avocado in the centre. We asked the waiter,why this plate of six sushi roll pieces had this one knob of rice at the corner,he said this was the “end piece” of the sushi roll,we knew then that the IPL match had claimed the chef working on our roll.

For the main course,we had Hed Hum with Thai chicken — chicken and mushroom with herbs and spice,served with sticky rice — (Rs 375),the chicken drizzled in a spicy sour gravy and the sticky rice was just that,served wrapped in a banana leaf. The combination was palatable and the highlight of our meal.

The dessert section that seemed fairly contained with its six options was a disaster as the waiter told us that only two options were available: The Brownie with ice cream (Rs 195) or the Tiramisu (Rs 225). We ordered the brownie which,as soon as it arrived to our table,gave up on itself and collapsed in the centre with the ice cream scoop weeping next to it. On our first bite of this depressed brownie,we got granulated sugar grinding in our mouth. We lowered our spoons in disappointment. It was clear that for all the options available at Toro,the only way one can be really happy especially if one wants the good stuff — from starters to dessert — is to go elsewhere.

Toro 29,First Floor,Khan Market,Contact: 43105777 Meal for two: Rs 3,000

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