Premium
This is an archive article published on December 20, 2011

Mohanlal’s Mohanthaal and other Stories

New Delhi’s centenary celebrations would be incomplete without a mithai menu. Here,some almost forgotten sweets from the days gone by.

Listen to this article
Mohanlal’s Mohanthaal and other Stories
x
00:00
1x 1.5x 1.8x

In India,every celebration is associated with a sweet dish — but did anyone tell you about the Sonwada? A Sindhi version of the fudge,Sonwada is thick,hard and tough to crack. “A challenge to the teeth,it is a delicacy that few people are aware of today,” says Mohan Lal,the manager of Ghantewala in Chandni Chowk,an 18th century sweet shop,considered the oldest in Delhi. Nestled in the the warren-like interiors of the walled city,a number of old sweet shops like Ghantewala offer rare delicacies that peep out among the trays of common laddoos and khoya barfis. The Mohanthaal,a crumbly sweet,is one of them.

Even as Delhi celebrated its centennial year,many foodies turned their attention to the forgotten sweets of Old Delhi. While the Sonwada is priced at Rs 580 a kg and can be eaten only a few bites at a time,the Chikki at Kanwarji is a different mouthful altogether. A winter favourite,the brittle,sweetened bar of peanuts and jaggery takes on rainbow hues at Kanwarji confectioners.

One of them is almost burgundy in colour and rose flavoured. The Gulabi Chikki,as it’s called,has a delicate flavour. It is priced at Rs 600 a kg,but worth it. “The Gulabi Chikki is made only in the winter months because this is when roses bloom best. This is our family recipe,so you are unlikely to find the Gulabi Chikki in any other shop,” says manager Roop Narayan.

Story continues below this ad

Like the Gulabi Chikki,most unusual treats are made in certain shops only,which partly explains their absence from the mainstream platter. Don’t expect Chef Hemant Oberoi to serve them at the Taj. Their high prices also mean that such sweets seldom feature in marriages and festive celebrations,where bulk purchases are preferred.

Only a connoisseur would appreciate the almost forgotten flavours of the Karachi Halwa. Chaina Ram’s Sindhi Confectionery makes it every day with almond,pistachio,raisin and walnut flavours.

“Even hardcore foodies don’t know that you can get Karachi Halwa in walnut flavour,” says Afzal Nizami,a food blogger,adding that the delicacy is also known as Rubber Halwa due to its chewy texture.

Small to miniscule shops make up the labyrinthine alleys of Chandni Chowk,so none but a sweet aficionado will make the trip to Tewari Brothers Confectioners,famous for their “world famous motichoor laddoo”.

Story continues below this ad

A less-celebrated sweet here is the Motipak. While it looks like a ladoo,it’s square in shape and with a milder flavour. Motipak is garnished with saunf. The price for this cousin of the laddoo is Rs 10 a piece.

Stay updated with the latest - Click here to follow us on Instagram

Latest Comment
Post Comment
Read Comments
Advertisement
Loading Taboola...
Advertisement