On October 23, 2023, European Union (EU) Ambassador Herve Delphin presented his Letter of Credence, which designates a diplomat as an ambassador to another sovereign state, to President Droupadi Murmu. Nearly two years later, his stay in Delhi has been a bouquet of pleasant memories.
A specialist in foreign policy and international relations, Delphin has spent 30 years working with the EU. A French national, he was awarded the title of ‘Knight of the Legion of Honour’ (Legion d’Honneur), the highest French National Order, in 2014.
He speaks to The Indian Express as part of a series of interviews with diplomats about Delhi — their home.
Excerpts:
How long have you been in Delhi? What is the one place you love to visit?
I’ve been here for almost two years in the current post. I travelled to Delhi for the first time over 20 years ago for a personal visit. That was followed by some official visits. So, I was exposed to the city before becoming an ambassador.
Sunder Nursery is among the favourite places for me and my family. There are playgrounds, and space for events, among other things. People go there for picnicking, a group of youngsters like to gather for dancing, and even playing guitars or flutes — it’s always buzzing. Besides, the gardener in me loves to go plant shopping at the nursery.
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Three things about the city that stood out to you?
The greenery surprises me… that’s pretty rare. Especially, for a Westerner from Europe. What is heartening is the effort that authorities make to protect the trees and people, too, attach importance to it. There are not so many capitals with so much greenery.
The second thing is probably more of a feeling. Delhi wraps you up in a different relation to time. I mean, I guess Einstein could have probably discovered the theory of relativity by living in Delhi. In one moment, the past is haunting you, and then in a blip, the present jumps at you. It can be like tuk-tuk honking or a street seller. I think this is the most unique thing about Delhi… how it meshes the past with the present.
The third is how chaos in the city has its order. Traffic is one example. The first time I was here, a friend took me for a ride on a Royal Enfield in the traffic in April — it was hot and sweaty. People are honking, there are a lot of cars in opposite lanes, but you go with the flow, and it works out!
Favourite food in the city?
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I’m a foodie and I like cooking, so I take a keen interest in discovering all that Delhi can offer. You can find food from all over India. I love the Bhawans of each state, and also the street food.
My daughters and I particularly like Pani Puri… it is a lovely contrast of flavours. What truly makes it special is how we eat it.
In terms of cuisine, I love South Indian food. You can serve me a Dosa anytime. I also enjoy seafood.
How is Delhi different compared to other cities that you have visited?
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This sprawling city can be a kaleidoscope to capture the diversity, and the past and present. Not many cities in the world can present such a patchwork.
The other aspect is, of course, that Delhi doesn’t come at you like Paris or London. You have to immerse yourself and lift the veil. Beauty and magic can be around the corner, but if you don’t make the effort, you’ll miss it.
There is only one city in the world, along with Delhi, that I can think of, and that’s Rome — a city that is a history of cities. It’s like the heart of Delhi is beating at different places — a city of so many heartbeats and lives.
After reading books on Delhi, another layer of mythology was added to my mind.
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Is there anything you would want to tell the administrators to change about the city?
It would be very presumptuous of diplomats to tell the administrator of the city what to do. They certainly want to improve the citizens’ lives. At the same time, diplomats can offer a sort of outsider’s eye.
Apart from a focus on traffic and pollution, selective (waste segregation) disposal of waste can make a huge difference. We do programmes with schools called “EU Goes to Schools”.
I’m always impressed by the degree of awareness and the desire of the youth to do something different to clean the cities.
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In Europe, it was the same at the beginning… and now it has become a habit. I think it’s a win-win.
Segregation can further be reinforced through competitive federalism, not just for states but for districts and gated societies. If colonies are incentivised, it would be great. I believe we can save the planet through this sense of engagement.
The other thing I would like to suggest is the cleaning of the Yamuna.
Memories here that you’ll never forget?
This is the most difficult one to answer… I remember when I went to Jama Masjid with my daughter and we just sat there during the sunset, amid prayers… it was all bustling.
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There was a moment of golden light. Whether in parks or monuments, the golden light always brings a moment of magic. This is something I will always remember.
If you had to introduce Delhi to someone back home, how would you do it?
I would tell them Delhi is not a city for the faint-hearted — you have to embrace it. Don’t try to come and subjugate it, but let yourself be subjugated by it… go with the flow.
The other suggestion is to take a good pair of sneakers. If you want to enjoy Delhi, you have to walk.
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What will you miss the most once you say goodbye?
The vibes of Delhi. I take great pride in the fact that my daughters (six and three years old) feel a sense of belonging here. They immersed so quickly… took no time to adapt and adjust. I’ll also miss the feeling of learning something new about a place.
