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Designs On India

WHILE the label ‘Winter-Festive’ is seen by many as a license to unleash bling and glitter,there are a few who make their mark by doing exactly the opposite

Written by Pooja Pillai |
August 19, 2011 2:59:03 am

Two young designers show how to meld a deeply Indian sense of aesthetics and a love for traditional fabrics to create a contemporary line of clothes

Juilee Bendhkale

WHILE the label ‘Winter-Festive’ is seen by many as a license to unleash bling and glitter,there are a few who make their mark by doing exactly the opposite. Juilee Bendkhale’s collection,shown on Thursday,is one of the most understated to be shown this far. But it really stands out for being superbly constructed. The line of separates — tunics,jackets,capes,pants,dresses and tops — are meant to be layered in different permutations. Bendkhale has also steered clear of oppressive and heavy velvets,wool and knitwear and has instead worked with khadi and silk in indigo,black and red. In fact,the designer’s main motive was to explore the different ways in which Indian handcraft traditions can be used in contemporary garments for a more global appeal. To that end,she’s done a clever job of using ikat from Andhra Pradesh and kasuti work from Karnataka,while the fabrics are all handloom. Strategically placed texturing — such as diagonal pleating on the sleeves and twisted folds on the neckline — only added interest factor to the collection.

Vaishali S

IF there was one thing missing from Vaishali S’ collection last season,it was confidence. While the ideas were right and the execution was good,the presentation lacked self-assurance. The beautiful chanderi creations were ill-served by some of the white shorts they were paired with and the styling could have been better. But the enthusiasm with which the collection was applauded,seems to have done wonders for her confidence. This time,she didn’t hold back on her vision and went for a bolder collection. She has once again used chanderi,although this time,it has been paired with paithani. The wispy delicacy of the former was complemented by the robust colours and bold shine of the latter.The outfits were all well-crafted,with many of them having a contemporary take on traditional Indian drapes like saris and dhotis.

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