Know Your City: This Chennai eatery is unique in its name as well as culinary experience it offers

R Rajendran, 78, the founder of ‘Trouser Kadai’. (Express Photo)

In a tiny kitchen, amid thick smoke, through a tiny source of light from a small bulb, a voice can be heard providing instructions to a group of four workers. When you look up a little closer, you can find a man clad in black trousers and sporting a spectacle. He is R Rajendran, 78, the founder of ‘Trouser Kadai’.

The shop has a portrait of legendary lyricist Kavignar Kannadasan at its entrance. For Rajendran, there has never been a day without listening to his songs. Rajendran says Kannadasan’s songs speak about life in the most efficient manner.

Rajendran’s day begins at 6 am. Along with his sons Ramesh and Vijay Raj and other workers, he is involved in all the activities at the shop, such as taking stock of raw items, cutting vegetables, and cleaning the area. The six-member team led by Rajendran are always on their toes to cater to customers who start arriving at the eatery in the afternoon.

From meals to mutton chukka to parotta to kola urundai (mutton mince balls) to different varieties of seafood, the small space has a large list of cuisines to offer.

Rajendran, who reads the newspaper first thing in the morning to keep a tab on the happening, hails from the Virudhunagar district. Since childhood, he had been engaged in many works in and around the district. After spending his initial years in Tiruchirapalli, he moved to Chennai in May 1977 to seek treatment for his mentally-ill daughter.

Rajendran’s day begins at 6 am. He reads the newspaper first thing in the morning to keep a tab on the happening. (Express Photo)

To manage the family expenses and hospital expenses, Rajendran began the eatery, without any name board. It was known by the customers as ‘Rajendran Appa Kadai’. The shop later became ‘Appa Kadai’ and soon it became ‘Trouser Kadai’, as a reference to the trademark attire of Rajendran. He lost his daughter despite providing the possible treatment and decided to continue in the city.

Rajendran says mouth publicity was the biggest advertisement for his shop. “The place was a house before. I approached the owner and asked him whether I could use the space on a rental basis to run an eatery. With around Rs 5,000, I started this place. Through word of mouth, around 10 to 20 people started coming daily and they recommended others to try out here as they will be able to eat a quality meal at an affordable price. Initially, this place was run just by me and my wife. My father-in-law used to run an eatery in Tiruchirapalli. I learned a couple of things there and here during the initial period, and he taught me to cook a couple of items. Few will join for work and then they will leave midway, so I learnt to cook the items by myself and with experience, I was able to learn to cook everything listed in our shop,” he said.

According to Rajendran, it is the cost and home-styled authentic cooking that attract customers. He says even the roadside shops sell one dosa for about Rs 15 but here it is Rs 10. (Express Photo)

“People getting down at nearby bus stand and station used to enquire which was the best place for good non-vegetarian food, the onlookers used to provide the direction to this shop and say ‘oruthar touser potukunu nipparu antha kadai than (one person wearing a trouser would be standing near a shop)’ and that’s how the eatery got its name,” he said.

Abdul, who made a pit stop at ‘Trouser Kadai’, said the name of the eatery pulled him inside. “After seeing the name, I thought there must be something unique here. We ate curry dosa and the taste was excellent and the cost was also very cheap. Next time, I will plan to come here for lunch or dinner,” he said.

Veteran Tamil director late Visu, actor Partheeban and many renowned politicians and actors have over the years been regular customers of this eatery.

What helps ‘Trouser Kadai’ stand apart from several other eateries in and around Mandaveli? According to Rajendran, it is the cost and home-styled authentic cooking that attract customers. He says even the roadside shops sell one dosa for about Rs 15 but here it is Rs 10.

“We still cook in firewood and grind masalas in a stone grinder. We don’t use any preservatives, we prepare everything in this. With spice and other ingredients at a measured level, our food will not taste as the one served in other hotels. In all these 45 years, no one had any stomach issues after having food at our eatery because of our style of cooking. One area of concern is I am not having the financial backing to expand this space. Though my sons are supporting me, they are not putting in the effort to take this forward in a bigger way,” Rajendran added.

According to him, around 150-200 people visit the eatery daily and the numbers have come down in recent times with the advent of several food delivery aggregators. Though modern times are challenging Rajendran, he thanks the digital media as it helps him in getting new customers not only from other states, but also from other countries like Japan.

“People search for me online and visit my place. Many of them have become regular customers. Whenever they visit Chennai, they never fail to make a stop here,” he added.

When asked why people should visit his shop, Rajendran says if they wish to have quality food without having to worry about their health, they can walk into the Trouser Kadai and leave satisfied with their tummies full.