Patiala’s heritage reawakens: Inside the reopened museums of Qila Mubarak and Sheesh Mahal
From Belgian chandeliers and battle swords to mirror palaces, Patiala’s grand past reopens to the public.
The ground floor of Qila Androon (Express Photo by Raakhi Jagga) For years, they stood silent — grand halls echoing with absence, their treasures locked behind peeling walls and forgotten gates. In February this year, the Punjab government breathed new life into two of Patiala’s most storied landmarks: the museums within the historic Qila Mubarak and the shimmering Sheesh Mahal.
With a token entry fee of just Rs 10, these doors have reopened, not merely to exhibit artefacts, but to resurrect an entire epoch of Punjab’s royal splendour, Sikh valour, and princely extravagance.
The initial footfall may appear modest, yet step inside and the past envelops you like the heavy scent of old sandalwood and polish. Here, in the heart of Patiala, the grandeur of the Phulkian dynasty unfolds — Belgian chandeliers that once lit royal durbars, swords that tasted battle, silver chariots that carried maharajas, and portraits that seem to watch visitors with quiet authority.
Qila Mubarak, where royal history still breathes
The centrepiece of the Darbar Hall museum at Qila Mubarak is impossible to overlook: 25 magnificent Belgian glass chandeliers suspended from a single ceiling, their crystals catching light in a symphony of sparkle. “You can’t see so many chandeliers under one roof in any other museum in India,” says a staff member, pride unmistakable.
Reopened after extensive restoration following a prolonged Covid-era closure, the museum now showcases two main galleries: Ancient Artefacts and Arms and Armour. Among the highlights are a rare dual-sword scabbard, an original portrait of Guru Gobind Singh, intricate daggers, mural paintings, early 20th-century models of Itala and Fiat cars, and a silver buggy crafted in Kolkata. Life-size mirrors on antique dressing tables stand as faded witnesses to royal vanity, their sheen softened by time.
A silver buggy used by Maharaja Bhupinder Singh. (Express Photo)
The Arms and Armour Gallery tells a more martial tale: 19th-century weapons once wielded by royal children, a double-bladed battle axe, Nepali dhangra, a golden-hilted katar, Nadir Shah’s sword, the sword of Shah Abbas of Persia (1519–1529 AD), and even a formidable camel gun. Portraits of Patiala’s rulers line the walls — from Baba Ala Singh, founder of the state, to Maharaja Yadwinder Singh. Most mesmerising is the 3D portrait of Maharaja Bhupinder Singh, whose eyes seem to follow every movement in the room.
Not all treasures fit here. Many lie preserved in the historic Mahindra Kothi, including a grand silver chariot once drawn by six horses for Bhupinder Singh himself. Though the silver has darkened with age, its opulence remains undiminished. Antique cars from the neighbouring Jind Riyasat rest nearby, their value potentially runs into crores, though no formal appraisal has been done — these are heirlooms, not commodities.
Spread over 13.5 acres, Qila Mubarak traces its origins to a mud fortress built by Baba Ala Singh in 1763-64 on an ancient mound mentioned in the Mahabharata. Successive rulers transformed it into a sprawling brick citadel of palaces, painted chambers, and courtyards. Parts of the inner Quila Androon remain partially inaccessible, preserving marble baradaris, mirror work, and masterpieces of the Patiala school of painting — an 18th-century style that blended Kangra, Basohli, Pahari, and Rajput influences. The complex, protected since 1972, also houses a portion converted into the luxurious Ran Baas heritage hotel, yet the museum welcomes all.
Sheesh Mahal, palace of a thousand reflections
A short distance away, near the Baradari Gardens, stands the Sheesh Mahal — a triple-storeyed dream of mirror inlays, terraces, and gardens. Reopened in February, its museum has been thoughtfully reorganised into four galleries: Chinese Art, Sculpture, Portrait and Collage, and Ancient Sculpture.
A suspension bridge built in the Sheesh Mahal complex. (Express Photo by Raakhi Jagga)
Here, one encounters a painting of Nadir Shah’s darbar in 1739, a crystal cushion throne, enamelled Chinese pottery from the 19th century, and stone figures tied to Patiala’s royal past. Many artefacts arrived as part of the 40 per cent share East Punjab received from the Lahore Museum collection after Partition.
The palace itself, built in 1847 by Maharaja Narinder Singh as a new royal residence within the Moti Bagh complex, dazzles with its namesake mirror work, Bhagwat Purana murals, and portraits of Sikh Gurus (currently under restoration). Its artificial lake, suspension bridge modelled on Rishikesh’s Lakshman Jhula, fountains, and landscaped gardens evoke a bygone era of leisure and beauty, though the lake currently lies dry. Parts of the complex remain under restoration.
A quiet resurgence
Tourism data shared by the Punjab Department of Tourism and Cultural Affairs hints at a gentle revival. While visitor numbers fluctuated in recent years, the reopening of these museums has brought renewed interest, particularly evident in early 2026 figures for Sheesh Mahal. Officials note that the numbers exclude the large crowds drawn by Heritage Festival in February.
In Patiala, where royal history is not distant lore but lived memory, these reopened museums offer more than artefacts — they offer a portal. To chandeliers that once illuminated power, swords that defended it, and mirrors that reflected an empire’s glory. For a city and a state reclaiming its narrative, the lights have come back on. The doors are open. The past is waiting.
Share
