The Pewter Room successfully tosses up Indian cuisine with a contemporary twist.
It’s hard to imagine now that Sector 26 was once a lesser-visited,an almost deserted part of the city,the facade of which,boasted of only downed and rusty shutters. All thats well into the past as this area has emerged as a serious food zone rather than just a street of eateries,with the big names in the citys hospitality industry. So the arrival of the uber- swish fine-diner,that has butlers togged in uniforms by designer Ritu Beri,The Pewter Room (TPR) in SCO 1,makes a statement.
A brainchild of citys well known interior-architect Anu Bains,the interiors are true to the name and stick to the metallic tones of copper and gold with a generous use of charcoal grey. Packing in 46 covers,the tables are well-spaced out and the luxurious elements a long textured wall in gold leaf,plush leather chairs,a dominating wooden wine rack and Turkish dome lights give it a stately feel.
Finding a table on a not-so-busy afternoon,we are instantly charmed by the ambience,down to the drifting tunes of jazz playing,albeit not live. The menu comes in the form of small books. There are two sets of menus for dinner and lunch. Though largely the same,lunch is leaner. Its a good mix of Indian and Continental and we notice there is a conscious,almost determined attempt to offer something different to the city diner.
We start with a cooler called Cool Sensation that brings in large chunks of orange and kiwi drowned in an energy drink. Before the appetiser,to our surprise (and that is really the point) we are served with amuse bouche a bite-sized stuffed cherry tomato with asparagus. Definitely,a first for any fine diner in the city. The good run continues with a portion of kori kempu that brought in sesame- coated chicken strips served with peanut sauce and cucumber and coconut pachdi. The pachdi,for the uninitiated,is essentially a south Indian raita and the pairing with sesame chicken is a winner. Bowling another googly from the kitchen (spearheaded by executive chef Piyush Jain) is the anjeer ke kebab served in a bowl. The kebab sits like an iceberg in cumin yoghurt and the fig compote adds to the sweet-tangy flavour. TPR also has a vegetarian option for the kebab. Speaking of which,the goat cheese yoghurt mousse is a great pick for those looking for light,vegetarian fare. The marinated beetroot,layered with goat cheese,pine nuts,micro lettuce and corn wafers in a cabernet sauvignon dressing looks great on the plate and tastes well on the palate.
A word of caution for diners who are accustomed to being served in bowls everything is pre-plated at TPR. Thats both good and bad. For instance,the anjeer ke kebab was good for one person. So order keeping that in mind.
Before the main course,a palate cleanser (complimentary for all) is served. Ours was a lemon granita that readied us for the last leg of lunch. We chose a raan esphahan that brought in a braised leg of lamb,finished with rum gravy in tandoor,served with peppered potato and garlic naan. A generous serving,we regretted not doing justice to it. For desserts,we would recommend The Flame that will give the sizzling brownie a reason to sulk. A chocolate dome is flambéed with contreau and exposes the vanilla ice-cream filled with nougat. A surprise package and that holds true for TPR as well.
Meal for two: Rs 2,200
Location: SCO 1,Sector 26