Diamantaire Extraordinaire
Jewellery designer Nirav Modi has made the cut internationally and will now expand his presence in the Indian market
In November 2010,a media shy Nirav Modi catapulted into the international jewellery scene by becoming the only Indian jeweller so far to have his creation featured on the cover of Christie’s annual Hong Kong auction catalogue. The featured Golconda Lotus necklace eventually fetched $3 million (Rs 16.29 crore). The Mumbai-based jewellery designer,however,outdid himself at last year’s Sotheby’s auction in Hong Kong,where his Riviere of Perfection — a necklace with 36 flawless white diamonds together weighing 88.88 carats — was sold for $5.1 million (Rs 27 crore).
Modi — a third-generation diamantaire — has enjoyed unprecedented success on the world stage. However,he is now looking at wowing the Indian market. To achieve the same,the jewellery designer — who set up his brand three years ago — recently had his first fashion show as part of India International Jewellery Week (IIJW) in Mumbai. “The organisers approached us and the show gave us an opportunity to show our work,” says Modi,who showed on Sunday night.
The collection showcased at the event comprised a total of 15 sets from Modi’s stunning ranges — a segment inspired by iconic motifs of the Mughal miniature school of art (the Mughal collection),a range that draws from floral motifs (Fluire line) and one based on the Art Deco movement of the ’50s (Sunburst line). Modi says that he gets his cues from nature,art and his immediate surroundings. Functionality too scores high on his list.
“For instance,when I saw my daughters wear stretchable bangles,albeit the costume jewellery variety,it made me want to create a range of elastic gold bangles that would custom fit all sizes. It took us two years to source the brilliant-cut diamonds but it was worth the wait,” he says.
What sets the 42-year-old apart is his access to rare diamonds. Born into a family of diamond traders,earlier based in Belgium,he learned the ropes of the trade. Modi then worked with the Gitanjali Group in the US. Apart from gaining access to the American market through his acquisitions of jewellery companies such as Sandberg & Sikorski (which owns the bridal jewellery brand A Jaffe),he put in place a network of marketing offices and factories,and liaised with Russian diamond miner Alrosa. Today,his company Firestar Diamond is the sole distributor of Rio Tinto’s Argyle pink diamonds in South Asia. “Given our control over sourcing,cutting and manufacturing,designing exquisite pieces became a possibility,” says Modi. The diamantaire has also patented certain diamond cuts — Endless Cut,where diamonds are cut and set seamlessly to create a continuous halo; and Ainra Cut,where diamond links replace the metal clasps traditionally used in jewellery.
His most recent achievement has been a chance to participate in a private exhibition at London’s prestigious Kensington Palace last November. In India,Modi intends to open his first store in Delhi by this year end and one in Mumbai in 2014. “We will have gold jewellery in a gold-loving country but the creations will always be diamond centric,” he says.
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