A unique seven-storey brick-and-lime plastered subterranean well with a long corridor of steps descending through the dramatic arches and a Banyan tree standing tall — what was once a lifeline of locals, a stepwell on the Asoj-Savli Road has faced neglect for a long time like most structures of its kind.
Popularly known as the Asoj Vav (literally meaning stepwell), a performance here about a week ago shone a spotlight on the heritage of the structure. Vadodara-based visual artist Kakoli Sen, who has been working on creating awareness and advocating the restoration of the stepwells across Gujarat, encapsulated the story that needed to be told in her November 23 performance.
The stepwell is believed to have been built by Rabari Aso — from a group of banjaras (wanderers) — over 500 years ago. Sen weaved a story around the rudimentary architecture where the banyan tree adds an element of uniqueness. Light, music and dance brought alive the story of Asoj Vav.
Asoj is another in her series of over a dozen performances at stepwells across Gujarat. In Vadodara, Sen has, so far, organised the visual shows for stepwells in Navlakhi, Sevasi, Koyali, Hanumant Vav in Bhayli and Asoj, along with the Adalaj stepwell in Ahmedabad. Sen decided to bring alive the Vavs through her stories as an extension of the project titled “Soul of the Vav” of the Bangalore-based Centre for Internet and Society’s ‘Maps for Change’ project.
“As I grew up in Delhi, architecture was part of my canvas as an artist. I was drawn to the beauty of stepwells and decided to undertake mapping… But it turned into a project where I now personify the stepwells through stories in order to create awareness about the magnificent architecture that was built centuries ago but is facing neglect. These are the only architectures that are below the ground. We have over 60 stepwells in Vadodara but most of them are forgotten and are not celebrated enough as Rani ki Vav in Patan.”
In Vadodara, Sen has chronicled the story of the magnificent 600-year-old Navlakhi Vav as well as the Vidyadhar Vav in Sevasi, which continue to be among the relatively better known spots.
Sen says that Navlakhi Vav, which was the main source of water during the construction of the Lukshmi Vilas Palace and also supplied water in the initial years, continues to be among the sources of water supply to the present-day golf course built on the palace estate.
“Navlakhi is the only remnant of Gurjar rule. It is located in the Lukshmi Vilas Palace compound and is more than 600 years old. The inscription in the Vav mentions Zafar Khan as the Governor of the Province of Gujarat. He assumed his regal title, Muzaffar Shah in 1407-08. A book ‘Baroda Nagri no Prachin Itihas’ states that on one of the lower floors of the Vav is a Brahmi inscription saying Suryaraj Kalchuri, a general of the Gurjar Kingdom, built the stepwell when the city was known as Vatpadra. It’s said that the Vav was called Navlakhi because nine lakh gold coins were spent to build it. It was refurbished in the time of Muzaffar Shah…,” she says.
Sen adds that the Navlakhi stepwell is built on an L-shaped plan and proceeds with four pavilion towers and four intermediate supporting frameworks which is very unique. “These are not only two-dimensional frames but three dimensional networks of vertical and horizontal stone beams. The entrance staircase is set at right angles to the stepped corner. The right angle is covered with a platform and thus continues into an additional pavilion, being crowned by a small canopy in the middle…”
The platform of the pavilion is supported by eight pilasters and eight pillars. The pavilion, which is one storey underground, is also entered by a narrow stairway at the western side. “The pillars and pilasters are of two types, one more simple and plain, similar to that in the stepwell of Sevasi, the others are very ornate in the form of a vase with emerging scrolls. The entablature in the pavilions and frameworks bear designs of hanging leaves and scroll-patterns at their horizontal beams, “ she says.
The ornamentation of the ceiling inside the first mandapa is made up of rows of half medallions with flower petals and garland and leaf patterns. The ceiling itself is embellished like a huge flower saucer. The inscription in Persian language mentions 1405 as the year of completion of the Navlakhi stepwell.
The Vidyadhar Vav is situated in Sevasi village, about six kilometers from Vadodara city. Laid out in the east with its entrance in the west, the stepwell has five pavilion towers and five intermediate supporting frameworks. A round parapet wall of about half a metre height surrounds the stepped corridor and the well. The pavilion towers have four plasters and four pillars.
The lintels of the pavilion towers are either decorated with rows of elongated leaf pattern or flowers in between which garlands are carved. The entablatures of the pillars, which are boarding the middle pathway of kuta– a tower like pavilion construction in a stepwell; two in the second storey are beautifully carved with sculptures depicting a horse led by its rider.
The horses are decorated with bands, tassels and ornaments and they have one raised leg resting on a wave which is a common motif on a stone. Some panels depict geese with scrolls hanging from their beaks and elephants.
“A stone masonry at the entrance has a name inscribed in Devnagri script. The gate has two tigers carved on the left and two elephants on the right. Stepwells were used to store rainwater, and also became a source of legends. Locals say that young girls decked in gold were sacrificed at Sevasi step well on full moon nights, for prosperity,” Sen says.
For Sen, documenting the stepwells has been a challenge in its own right. “People who live around stepwells today are unaware about the stories. In many places, locals discourage me from taking up projects to bring alive the stepwells as the ruins have turned into dens for anti-social elements… But these are ornate underground structures that have stories to tell. I feel that although we have modernised water supply, the stepwells continue to hold relevance to regenerate ground water and must be restored to their glory.”
(Left) Cultural performance held at Asoj Vav. (File) 
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