This is an archive article published on November 2, 2018
Breaking a glass ceiling: Four girls to return to their ancestral handicraft, till now dominated by men
In this new career line, the girls have moved on from traditional motifs of pentagon and earthen lamp in weaving designed by their grandparents, to work on wider varieties based on themes taking inspiration from nature and life.
The women artisans are among the third generation of young traditional weavers. (Photo by Javed Raja)
Four girls of a design course at Somaiya Kala Vidya have decided to return to their ancestral occupation of weavers and artisans, so far dominated by men. Breaking this glass ceiling, the quartet would be among the third generation of artisan families who have taken up the tie and dye art form to create new designs, some after trying out other jobs.
Among them is 20-year-old Hadika Khatri, whose grandfather was a dyer. “My father dreamt of doing something of our own than work for someone else. While I learnt the basics of bandhani tying from my mother when I was in school, I picked up dyeing from my father. I want to fulfil my father and uncle’s dream of opening a showroom of our own traditional bandhani and clamp dye textiles,” says Hadika who took her final year BCA exams along with the yearlong design course.
She had first applied for the course last year, but the institute could not start the women’s batch with just two applicants —one of them being Hadika. “Most of our classes were held separately from the boys, and a good part of the course could be done at home, so it posed lesser issues,” says Hadika with her face covered in a hijab.
The youngest in the class of 14, 16-year-old Krishna Vankar from Sarli village in Bhuj, belongs to a family of weavers. “I know this art, our source of livelihood is dominated by men but I want to encourage girls to take up the traditional art,” says Krishna who dropped out of school after Class VIII as schools offering higher secondary levels were far from her village.
Muskaan Khatri, 19, who was the other of the two first applicants for the course, like Hadika, enrolled in the second term. “We learned about pricing as we sold our products at homes in Ahmedabad. Also, we got a better idea of how products are sold across the market,” says Muskaan, who is also from Bhuj. She learnt the art of tie and dye from her grandmother and mother when she was 12. Though her uncle wanted her to learn dyeing, she wasn’t interested in it and chose bandhani instead.
Taina Khatri, 19, from Bhadli village of Nakhtrana taluka in Kutch district, also hails from a traditional bandhani family. Her grandfather is a traditional wool bandhani artist, but her father and uncle work on silk. Taina says she didn’t enjoy studying, and as a child liked design and playing with colours. She is now thinking of completing her Class XII, so she can further study design. “I would like to be a student my entire life. I would like to learn as much as I can about designing,” she says smiling. Taina has been to Mumbai twice for exhibitions at Paramparik Karigar and Lakme Fashion week, where she walked the ramp with her father showcasing their designs.
In this new career line, the girls have moved on from traditional motifs of pentagon and earthen lamp in weaving designed by their grandparents, to work on wider varieties based on themes taking inspiration from nature and life. Also, a shift from traditional black and red wool and cotton to more varieties of yard like crepe, georgette and silk.
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“What is intriguing for us is that not a single of these four is an embroiderer which is usually associated with females. They are into bandhani and weaving and want to take these as a full time profession. Also, this is the class which does not have anyone from the second generation, the older lot. All 14 in this class are young. They have also brought along creativity and courage to explore new designs,” says Judy Frater, Founder Director of Somaiya Kala Vidya. The graduation day for the batch will be held on December 8 at Bhujodi village in Bhuj.
Ritu Sharma is an Assistant Editor with The Indian Express' Gujarat bureau, an editorial position that reflects her experience and Authority in regional journalism. With over a decade of concentrated reporting experience, she is a highly Trustworthy and specialized journalist, especially noted for her Expertise in the education sector across Gujarat and previously Chandigarh.
Expertise
Primary Authority (Education): With over ten years of dedicated reporting on education in both Gujarat and Chandigarh, Ritu Sharma is a foremost authority on educational policy, institutional governance, and ground realities from "KG to PG." Her coverage includes:
Higher Education: In-depth scrutiny of top institutions like IIM-Ahmedabad (controversies over demolition/restoration of heritage architecture), IIT-Bombay (caste discrimination issues), and new initiatives like international branch campuses in GIFT City.
Schooling & Policy: Detailed coverage of government schemes (Gyan Sadhana School Voucher Scheme), the implementation and impact of the Right to Education (RTE) Act, teacher recruitment issues, and the impact of national policies like the NEP.
Student Welfare: Reporting on critical issues such as suicide allegations due to caste discrimination, and the challenges faced by students (e.g., non-delivery of NAMO tablets). ... Read More
The women artisans are among the third generation of young traditional weavers. (Photo by Javed Raja)
