Times gone by took centrestage on Day 5 of the India Couture Week 2017. While veteran designer Monisha Jaising turned to the opera for her collection, designer Varun Bahl invoked Czech painter Alphonse Mucha’s works for his show titled “Dream Nouveau”.
Jaising presented her collection on a ramp that was styled like the stage of an opera house, with balconies flanking the two sides. The collection featured womenswear, with concept dresses and gowns featuring high slits to add a contemporary twist. Ruched dresses and skirts in sequined, shimmery fabric, velvet, tulle, organza and satin formed a large chunk of the collection. Sequins and beadwork were staple embellishments and the dominant colours were earthy maroons, icy blue, moss green and black. There was an odd chikankari sari as well. The elaborate twists and twirls to the waistline of the dresses and gowns made them look a tad impractical. As for the showstopper matters, actor Shilpa Shetty walked the ramp in an orange and gold Banarasi dress. The dress was an off-shoulder number with a thigh high slit and a short train.
Sorbet shades and floral motifs combined with intricate sequin work operated effortlessly to give Varun Bahl’s show a vintage bohemian touch. The collection featured floor length dresses, layered lehengas, saris for women, and churidars, jackets and achkans for men. To juxtapose the heavily embroidered dresses and skirts, the outfits were matched with lighter net duppattas. Short capes were paired with saris and lehengas. The colour palette was a heady mix of peach, blush pink, greens and topped off with warm reds and rust. There was a hint of blue as well. Tulle, georgettes and silk were paired beautifully with thread and sequin work. The use of cold shoulder; fit and flare jackets allowed this collection to go beyond just bridal wear, which is what a lot of couture designers showcase in India.