Christina Hendricks, Diane Kruger and singer Charli XCX led the front rows at the half-way point of Paris Fashion Week on Saturday. Here are the highlights of the spring-summer 2017 collections, including reports from Nina Ricci, Elie Saab and Mugler.
NINA RICCI HAS SOME FUN
Guillaume Henry injected his signature sense of fun to the usual coquettishness of Nina Ricci – and this season saw the lauded designer further define the storied French house with his forward-looking approach.
Lending a note of irony to the DNA gamine styles, kinetic black and white stripes, floral motifs, and flashes of fur print peppered the 40-piece show. Metallic gold and bronze gave the collection a purposeful over-the-top edge, alongside the bright color palette of purples, blues, reds and pinks.
There were plenty of clever references. A leopard print style came as a total-look, as if the model herself had fur actually covering her body. Henry won accolades for turning the dormant Carven house in the space of just five years into a must-see show. The designer looks like he’s set to do the same at Ricci.
ELIE SAAB CHANNELS DARK FOR SPRING
Inglourious Basterds star Diane Kruger posed for photographers ahead of Elie Saab – a show that was notable for featuring some of the world’s most influential current models such as Karlie Kloss and Gigi Hadid.
The Lebanese designer explored an unusually dark and brooding palette for a spring show. Stars and vivid taroc-like colours gave the 54-piece collection a cosmic edge – reflected in the multicoloured stardust runway decor.
The vavavoom, cinched-waisted Saab DNA was, of course, there – the bread-and-butter of the house. But voluminous black leather waistcoats and black leather belts gave this display a rebellious side.
MUGLER’S DEEP SEA
Deep blue ocean decor was the canvas that Mugler designer David Koma used to paint his swirling, geometric styles in the funky Saturday show. Shards of whispy sea-plant shaped colour, along with asymmetric watery blue decoration on calves, and colours – from vermillion, to vivid blue, coral and shimmering silver – evoked the hues of deep sea creatures.
Japanese-style round shoulders – such as in an oversize Origami-style white jacket – provided an Oriental twist to the marine musing. Elsewhere, white mini-dresses with crisp hems added a sporty flavour.