THE final two days of Amazon India Fashion Week, which drew to a close on Sunday, were a welcome respite from the predictable floral overdose that had dominated the Spring-Summer 2018 edition otherwise. Designers — from young ’uns like Dhruv Kapoor, Dhruv Vaish, Nought One and Huemn to veterans like Madhu Jain and Anju Modi — presented summer-friendly, wearable fare. Designer Suneet Varma, who was celebrating 30 years of his couture label’s inception, was the slight aberration in the otherwise pret-dominant fashion week. We bring you the highlights from the closing weekend:
An Ode to Kerala
Textile revivalist Madhu Jain tapped into the rich cultural heritage of Kerala for the first part of her collection.The show, which was kicked off by a Kathakali performance, used the kasavu fabric, and adapted it for saris, churidars, ankle-length kurtas and long dupattas. Adding to this were the murals from the Gurvayur temple, painted on clothes in hues of red, green and blue, offering a colourful contrast to the cream, gold and beige background of the traditional fabric. The second part of the collection was an almost minimalistic offering in bamboo-silk. Gold and silver bootis, bulls and cattle on a black background could be attributed to the tribal inspiration behind the line.
Weaving a Sigh
Anju Modi, who has lately been showcasing heavy bridalwear, kept khadi at the core of her refreshing pret offering. Saris, long jackets, kurtas and churidars in muted shades of mustard, blue and beige scored high on the wearability factor. The Gandhi spectacles and the quintessential jhola completed the look as models walked the ramp with the bhajan Vaishnav jan to playing in the backdrop. Modi’s creations were clean in terms of silhouettes and lines.
Out of the Box
Shyma Shetty and Pranav Kirti’s fashion label Huemn, known for its androgynous clothing style, offered an eclectic collection of gender-neutral clothing. The show opened with a small act, showing a person struggling with his newfound sexuality, while another was trying to find his/her bearings in a society looking to label him in a certain way. Colour-block jeans, jackets with ripped helms, printed sweatshirts and over-sized shirts in black, blue and grey dominated the collection. “We really believe that there should be no discrimination between clothing for men and women,” said Shetty.
Suneet Varma’s was the lone couture offering at the AIFW SS 2018 grand finale on Sunday evening. His collection “Garden Of Eden” turned out to be a dramatic collection, replete with feathers, tiaras, veils and headgear. The show was heavy on the use of embellishments with crystals, embroidery and sequins, all trademarks of Varma’s 30-year-old oeuvre. With “barely there” blouses made of beads strung together, and rampant use of sheer and net fabric, the collection was bold and daring, to say the least.