Amazon India Couture Week 2015 opens in Delhi today with 12 couturiers set to showcase their collections over five days (till August 2). With fresh collaborations, new launches and celebrity spotting on the ramp, the fashion extravaganza promises plenty of surprises. From jumpsuit shararas to edgy evening wear, the grandeur of gowns to floral flamboyance, it’s Indian couture with a modern interpretation. Here’s a sneak peek.
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The Beach Bride, Monisha Jaising
Destination weddings will never be out of fashion. On a beach or aboard a luxury yacht, a bride’s ensemble has to match the mood and theme. That’s what designer Monisha Jaising had in mind when she was putting together her couture collection for the season, aptly titled, “The Sailing Bride” (pictured). “These days, a bride wants to look luxurious but she prefers practical and light-weight ensembles. The collection has silhouettes which are easy to handle. There is no hassle of draping and pleating, making it a perfect choice for a wedding on a yacht,” says Jaising. The colour palette is inspired by the varied hues of the sea, sand, sun, coral reefs, starfish and shells. To go with the flow, the designer has worked with fabrics such as tweed, leather mixed with luxe silk jersey and soft chiffon.
Mythical Magic, Gaurav Gupta
Fantasy land and Gaurav Gupta go hand in hand. So it’s no surprise that this time too all things mythical remain the focus of his couture collection. Titled “Silt and Cipher”, the line promises to be ethereal and sophisticated, with his signature silhouettes taking the story forward. The big shift comes in the form of the fabrics he has used for this line. “I have used a lot of silk, and I rarely do that. It’s a rich collection,” says Gupta. The colour palette comprises mostly pastels, with techniques such as zardozi, thread work and 3D boning (pictured). “The jackets are edgier, and the signature sari and sari-lehenga have also evolved,” says Gupta, whose inspiration is the strong, bold woman, willing to experiment.
Flower Power, Varun Bahl
On Friday night, at a cosy Lutyen’s Delhi bungalow, a decadent palace will come alive, as Varun Bahl (pictured above) showcases his latest couture collection. Flowers remain his muse, and this time it will be a garden in full bloom. “The colour story moves from ivory, and three shades of pink to black, burgundy and burnt orange,” says Bahl. The designer has worked with his favourite fabrics such as chiffon, tulle, silk taffeta and raw silk. “I believe that couture is not just bridal, and I have stuck to that notion with this range as well. There are a lot of day looks, and of course it progresses to bridal towards the end,” says Bahl. Apart from Indian and western silhouettes, he has also experimented with fusion wear. This season, Bahl will also debut his couture collection for men.
Ethnic Debut, Rahul Mishra
This season, Rahul Mishra takes forward his philosophy of slow fashion with his debut couture collection. He returns to the Indian runway after a gap of a year-and-a half with “Tree of Life”. Known for his intricate handwork on Western silhouettes and his affair with handlooms, the designer explores Indian silhouettes with this line. He has also woven an element of sportswear into the collection. “There’s a lot of volume in the clothes. I have used colours such as white, black, beige and pastel shades, with a touch of silver and gold,” he says.
Beyond Bridal, Manav Gangwani
In India, couture has often been confused with bridal wear says Manav Gangwani. “It’s natural, since both couture and bridal are opulent and made to measure. But, there is not a single wedding lehenga in this collection,” says Gangwani, who will strike a balance between bridal, red carpet dressing and evening wear in his collection, “Le’amoureuse (The Beloved)” (pictured). “I have worked with florals and motifs. The collection is vibrant with an element of risqué,” says Gangwani, whose choice of hues are gunmetal grey, peach, coral, aqua and dark purple. With Kangana Ranaut as his showstopper, we are anxious already.