Fashion designers will attest that accessories can make or break a collection. Over-accessorising or under-dressing a look can mean the difference between god-awful garishness and dishwater dullness. At the recent Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week (WIFW) Spring-Summer 2014,we can safely say that designers are learning to strike a balance. Accessories are increasingly becoming part of the narrative of the ramp. At WIFW,footwear went from canvas trainers and brogues to vertiginous heels and wooden clogs. Jewellery was either brazen and bold or subtly complementary,and the bags and oversized clutches had us begging for more. These statement pieces caught our eye,not just for their finish and design,but also for their congruity with the collections.
Malini Ramani took off to exotic locales armed with gold accessories,courtesy designers Kaabia and Sasha Grewal of Outhouse. We worked with base metals,18-carat gold plating,Swarovski crystals and stones such as mother-of-pearl,turquoise and natural quartz, says Kaabia. Outhouse also created some maatha-patti head-gear and ear cuffs especially for the show.
Husband-wife duo Pankaj and Nidhi Ahujas collection was an ode to the Renaissance period. Prints derived from the painted facades of European churches of the 14th to 17th century were transferred on to totes,elongated clutches and envelope bags. We also used embroidery and cutwork on the bags,covering all aspects of the collection, says Nidhi.
Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khannas collection Quiet Vanity was about all things understated and subtle. Just as nude conspired with metal in their colour pallete,the theme was carried forward on to impressive 4.5-inch killer pencil heels. Footwear specialist Shruti Kaul Sachdeva worked closely with the designers to bring their vision to life. We worked with soft,nude and grey-coloured leather and synthetic metallic accents. The silhouette of the heels remained the same through the show,but we played around with textures and colours, says Kaul.
Payal Prataps A Walk in The Park collection was complemented by ivy leaves and berries sprouting gold-plated ear cuffs and colour-contrasting leather shoes. But what caught our fancy were the bright punched leather bags and clutches. We carried the colour-blocking story forward with the tokri-shaped bags and punched leather clutches, says Pratap. While a neutral brown played foil to bright colours on the bags,the two-toned clutches wore contrasting inners.
Tribal motifs and architectural graphics dominated Ankur and Priyanka Modis collection Tribus. The symmetric lines of these elements were adapted and sculpted into eye-catching thin metal accents that were presented in the form of lip rings,collars and cuff pins and a body-armour like neckpiece to add an edgy tribal element,yet keep the look clean,crisp and contemporary, says Priyanka.
Anupama Dayals tryst with jewellery design continued with a capsule collection of semi-precious materials in her Gulabi line. The jewellery,with distinct Mughal and Turkish influences,was given a tribal twist. Dayal used turquoise,costume emeralds and rubies and pearls. Gold-plated medallions had an antique finish and were studded with pearls,garnets and lapis. Its culled from the vintage,but revitalised and adapted for the modern woman, says Dayal.
Expect the unexpected,seems to be the mantra for designer Amit Aggarwal even as his shoes had Japanese,pagoda influences. We employed techniques similar to the ones we used to create the clothes cording with leather and our signature faux metal strips, says Aggarwal. The sculpted shoe was fashioned out of light Styrofoam mouldable rubber,so that its not heavy to wear in summer. Each shoe had to be moulded as per the curve of the wearers foot. So,they were customised to fit the models, he says.