By: Kimi Dangor
Day One at WIFW clearly heralded the motif of the season with fashion’s perennial favourite paisley ruling the runway. ‘Ambi’, ‘kairi’ or paisley — call it what you will — is all set to add a vintage flavour to Fall collections. While couturier Tarun Tahiliani’s jewel-inspired ready-to-wear line called upon signature Mughal miniature paintings, stone work and the mango-shaped motif, Kolkata designer Kiran
Uttam Ghosh paired her quintessential pleated drapes with over-sized paisley prints, paisley embroidered necklines and armholes, even paisley neck-pieces. Designer brothers Shantanu and Nikhil Mehra, who incidentally showed the same “trans-seasonal” line at Lakme Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2014 in Mumbai, gave the paisley yet another stunning salute with a range of paisley booti sherwanis and pared down floor-hugging skirts.
“I am an individualist, evolving a new technique, which though not necessarily Indian in the traditional sense of the word, will yet be fundamentally Indian in spirit” — Tahiliani quoted artist Amrita Sher-Gil in his concept note, and set about contemporarising the classics with sari draped kurtas, roomy salwar pants, lungi skirts and dhoti drapes. Vineet Bahl, who has in the past few seasons trained his sartorial eye on the Indianwear market, also revisited classic silhouettes with unusual colour combinations.
Embroidered kurtas and jackets were teamed with churidars, parallel pants and palazzos, albeit in playful cropped lengths, mixing old-world charm with modern detailing. Anupama Dayal, on the other hand, took the sanguine sari and draped it like a dhoti or a pleated skirt. The name of the game was reinvention — taking the tried-and-tested and making it new.
The Banarasi textile wave continued well into a new season at WIFW, as both Dayal and Bahl explored silks, georgettes, organzas, brocades and handlooms from the region. While Dayal’s bridal saris were awash in celebratory Indian colours such as sindoor reds, spice greens, haldi yellow, kesari and pyazi, Bahl’s palette was more restrained with subdued beige and icy green progressing on to peaches, plums, olive greens and Prussian blues.
WALK THE TALK
Have you ever wondered if designers keep practicality in mind while designing a collection? Well, we were left wondering too at Raakesh Agarvwal’s uber dazzling Fall line ‘Seduce NOT Control’. Inspired by S&M and pop stars, the collection had more than 50 shades of glitter and shine, accessorised by thigh-high blingy boots, spiked heels, neck braces and chain mail.
But what really brought the bondage theme to the forefront — and not in the most complimentary way — were the bedazzled gowns that the models could barely walk in, prompting a few to abort their runway routine and walk back into the wings.