A Cut Above

Pankaj & Nidhi’s impeccable spring-summer line married technique with great finish.

Written by Kimi Dangor | Published: October 13, 2013 4:33:28 am

When a collection makes you want to jump up from your front row perch to feel the fabric,explore the intricacies of the embroidery and marvel at the technique,you know you are in the presence of magic. Such was the lure of “The Grammar of Ornament”,in a lexicon that was signature Pankaj & Nidhi,presented on Day Two. A tribute to the Renaissance period,the husband-wife duo’s collection was a master class in aesthetics.

Marble sculptures metamorphosed into three-dimensional hand-cut appliques that transformed a simple tulle top into a work of art. Medieval church-inspired ornament prints were seen on double jersey dresses and blazers. Pompeian mosaic ceilings came alive on brilliantly executed mosaic embroidered jumpsuits and dresses. Intricate crewel embroidery in silken thread-covered sheath and skater dresses in ceramic blues were punctuated by poppy reds.

Ushering in spring-summer 2014’s biggest trend of active wear,the duo created sports jackets with mosaic embroidery,crewel-work zippered gilets and printed training pants.

Cropped jackets were artfully printed upon,covered in applique and decorated with lattice-weave. Luxe silks and double jerseys met airy organzas and floaty tulles and colours ranged from eggshell white and ash gray to cerulean blue and cheery yellow.

With the accent on ornamentation,silhouettes were simple and accessories,minimal. Slivers of metal glinted at the neck and on belt buckles with custom-made clutches adding the finishing touch.

The duo may have borrowed the title of the collection from a book published in 1856 by artist Owen Jones,but the collection was urbane,contemporary and a lesson in refined luxury — unarguably the highlight of the day.

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