Demonetisation: I suffered, then realised I was a rich foreigner with privileges

A visiting German journalist in India recounts the last one week when she struggled to exchange/withdraw old currency notes of Rs 500 and Rs 1000.

Written by Petra Sorge | New Delhi | Updated: November 18, 2016 5:26 pm
A foreign tourist takes pictures of people standing in a queue outside a bank to exchange and deposit their old, high denomination banknotes in Kolkata, India (REUTERS/Rupak De Chowdhuri) A foreign tourist takes pictures of people standing in a queue outside a bank to exchange and deposit their old, high denomination banknotes in Kolkata, India (REUTERS/Rupak De Chowdhuri)

Wednesday, November 9

When for the first time, someone sends me this news piece “Rs 500, Rs 1,000 notes scrapped as legal tender: Narendra Modi” via WhatsApp, I don’t really pay attention. I am just following the US elections: Trump has just taken the Midwest. Ohio. Florida. His victory is at arm’s length.

How awful can a day be? I need some coffee.

At the counter, I finally wake up: “No m’am”, the lady tells me, “we don’t accept Rs 500 notes.” The bill is Rs 86 – I have four Rs 500 and four Rs 10 notes in my purse. Yes, a day CAN become more awful. At least I can swipe my credit card.  And my German friend Karola says she knows someone who can help. She collects my four invalid notes.

Thursday, November 10

All ATMs are closed for two days. I am using my last cash for the rickshaw. Then I am broke. I have savings on a German bank account – but what are they worth now? I borrow Rs 100 from an employee of my guesthouse. I feel embarrassed. So far in India, it’s always been me who has given money to somebody.



Friday, November 11

HSBC Bank, Bank of Maharashtra, Citibank: all ATMs are closed.

I borrow hundred for mobility from one colleague, sixty for lunch from another one. For dinner, I choose a credit card restaurant. My currency is plastic now. In the evening, Karola has a present for me: five Rs 100 bills! Her contact could really exchange some of my old notes. I feel rich!!!

Saturday, November 12

Today, I try the post office. Even before it’s opened, at 11 am, the queues in front of the building are insane. No way.
I try to create a Paytm wallet online. I enter my Indian phone number, the reply: “Mobile number not available please raise a query at” No, thanks.

On WhatsApp, my Germans-in-India group is overheating.

Nina, 11:13 am: “I am stuck in Rajasthan without cash and all the ATMs are empty.”
Julia, 1:14 pm: “Can’t you use Ola Money or Paytm?”
Nina: “Ola doesn’t accept my credit card.”
Fabian: “And Uber?”
Nina: “No.”
Julia J.: “I’ve also queued and what did I get: a 2000 bill.”
Fabian, on the bus from Chandigarh to Delhi, at 5:15 pm: “I haven’t eaten or drunken since this morning 11 am.”
At 6:43 pm, “I am constantly seeing these Pepsi banners.”

Whilst my friend is getting severely dehydrated, I can enjoy a fresh beer at Connaught Place. Credit card life is fantastic.

Well, only until I run into this young boy, dark eyes, shabby trousers. He raises his hands to his mouth. He is hungry. I don’t have cash. I stare at his mother: “I REALLY DON’T  HAVE CASH.”

This is getting cynical. Modi wants to target black money? He is hitting the poorest: What are these people on the street doing? Or prostitutes? Will they also introduce Paytm?

Sunday, November 13

The Indian Express runs a story: “Jaipur: Infant dies, father says no cash for ambulance”.

I find more of these stories online: People get turned down at hospitals; senior citizens suffer heart attacks in queues.

Demonetization is killing lives. Why are economists still applauding the BJP government? Billions are hoarded offshore, in Switzerland, Singapore. The rich don’t have their cash at  home. This is an unparalleled social experiment.

Monday, November 14

Banks are closed because of – bank holiday. But Karola is again saving me. She pays me the rest of my Rs 1,500. Her contact has someone working in the bank, and apparently owns three credit cards. I don’t ask any more questions.

Tuesday, November 15

I can pay rickshaws, my trainer, my lunch. A good day.

Wednesday, November 16

In the next days, I will have to make several cash payments. I have to hunt for money now. Karola and I are heading for a German institute – the “Deutsche Bank”. Shouldn’t we  get some cash over the counter here? The manager informs me that unfortunately not: “If you don’t have an account with Deutsche Bank India, we cannot help you.”

But I don’t have an account in India. I’m just a poor foreigner without cash.

On the other side of the bank, there’s a crowd. I queue up. Somebody tells me: “You can go to the lady’s queue.” There’s a lady’s queue? How convenient. That’s Indian courtesy.

I spot this elderly woman; wave to her, let her stand in front of me. Another one is getting furious: “There’s a line for senior citizens over there!” That’s Indian crudely.

In the bank, I am shocked: The ATM is out of order. Outside, somebody had told me it is working. I am losing what’s left of my German reservation. I am shouting, using swear  words.

Or was it yet another language problem? People sometimes don’t understand me in India. One morning, I wanted to try a strange food on the menu: I ordered “Maggi”. I was served – matches. For breakfast. Yummy.

Finally, someone in the bank has pity, and passes me his business card: “Senior Priority Relationship Manager”. He tells me to come back after 7 pm, “I will make sure that you get money at the ATM”.

And indeed: He organizes me a way in, way after the closing hour. For the first time in seven days, I can withdraw Rs 2,500.

The solution is to do it the Indian way: Be emotional – and know someone.

But that’s not the end of the story. Since Karola’s card wasn’t accepted at that bank, we keep roaming the quarter. We stop in front of one agency where two guys carry rifles. An  accountant leaves the office. I ask him: “Has there been violence against the employees?” – “No, but we take precautions.” My friend asks him if there is an ATM working somewhere. “Oh yes, I just withdrew money in there.” – “WHAT??!” Karola tells him how she’d been trying to find an ATM for days desperately.

The accountant stops, whispers in the ear of one guard. He lets us in. Karola can finally withdraw Rs 2,500.

The accountant asks me to withdraw too, and I tell him that I’ve already reached my daily limit. “Try anyway; the situation will still be tense for some weeks.” I enter my card in the  slot. The machine dispenses another 2,500. “How is this possible?” – “You have a foreign credit card. The limit is only for Indian citizens.”

I feel guilty for a second – then withdraw a third time. My purse now carries 85 Rs 100 bills.

I am a rich foreigner with privileges.

(The views expressed by the author are personal.)

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  1. P
    PS Chauhan
    Nov 19, 2016 at 6:33 am
    And now she is getting some Cash from IE to buy and pay bills....
    1. K
      Nov 18, 2016 at 7:31 pm
      correlation doesn't equate causation. well said Sahil Gupta
      1. G
        Nov 25, 2016 at 7:27 am
        I realized the pain undergone by the poor people in those demon monetisation during the BLACK money days . Only the deomons have plenty of bags of BLACK MOney MOVING IN CARS HAPPILY and sowing their ill gotten wealth and showing no repect to anyone elsein the society
        1. G
          Nov 25, 2016 at 7:43 am
          Poor people were not happy even thos few days during those Black money dayslt;br/gt;Hard working people were suffering and hardly working enjolt;br/gt;lt;br/gt;Death blow to criminal forces hiding in different categories of the society
          1. H
            Nov 23, 2016 at 10:18 am
            Ahi Devo Bhava!!!lt;br/gt;You are most welcome young lady !!
            1. B
              BAPTY.s Seshasayee
              Nov 20, 2016 at 5:03 am
              Sorry to read This article far from truth. This young German lady SHLD ask her parents how it was during war in hitlers time. And if one was a Jew what did hitler do. We Indians can barE all this mam. lt;br/gt;Thank u.
              1. C
                Nov 18, 2016 at 4:46 pm
                Indian Express and NDTV are going full throttle to create a scene of utter desperation and they have become the biggest guardians of the poor of India. All they are doing is publishing such stories and giving footage to fuddu Keju, a sick fella who is getting fatter despite of his high diabetes by all the ill gotten wealth in the name of donations...
                1. B
                  Bir Chilarai
                  Nov 18, 2016 at 5:37 pm
                  You should ask your gmother what it was like in 1939 Germany. This is war my friend and India's enemies are both inside and outside. People suffer in a war, that's the nature of the beast. Luckily it is only temporary and the outcome will be a better, richer, safer India. Everyone is agreed on that, including all the ordinary people I stood in lines with. We're familiar with lines: Jio 4G, cricket, movies, buses, trains, you name it.
                  1. C
                    Nov 18, 2016 at 3:29 pm
                    Its made up story, why one very sorry about the poor suddenly turns the thoughts towards prosutes. I stopped there only and didn't read the rest.
                    1. C
                      Charles Thomson
                      Nov 19, 2016 at 6:30 am
                      Stood in the line two days ago for withdrawing from ATM. People were so kind even offer a chair. Took 30 minutes to withdraw 20 x Rs.100/- notes. Ask all in the queue of which many were just drivers and office boys. All told me it's to help reduce black money and where happy to wait.
                      1. D
                        Nov 22, 2016 at 1:36 am
                        Just wait for December 30, and see how fast and how much will be withdraw out of India by Foreign Investors and NRIs. India is now closed economy which is very dangerous for foreign investors when even Indian citizen have no control and freedom over their own money and investments.
                        1. S
                          Nov 18, 2016 at 11:54 am
                          Good after having guilt pangs u withdrew third time and 85 bills, so humane. People with such humane touch have all rights to comment on Goverment policy of demonetisation.
                          1. G
                            gubradi Jo
                            Nov 18, 2016 at 10:11 pm
                            Again Modi will win and again wretched media will end up spitting on its own face. Remember 2014?
                            1. H
                              Nov 18, 2016 at 12:06 pm
                              You had once in a lifetime experience. Interesting story to tell your gkids some day. Incredible India
                              1. J
                                Nov 19, 2016 at 6:48 am
                                Sponsored article by by some black money holder...
                                1. B
                                  Nov 22, 2016 at 8:32 am
                                  bhaya ji aap ki kitni rakam fans gai hai ?? kuch nahi kar paye toh , kam se kaam mandir ya charity me dan me de do.. upar wala ( saab dekh raha hai) oh khush hoga
                                  1. B
                                    Nov 22, 2016 at 8:27 am
                                    surely what a scam BJP got to know abt this d-monitisation but CONgrace / khujli/bhanji / netaji / bibi ji all got stuck with their;br/gt;no fellow feelings !!!
                                    1. S
                                      Shrinivasa Kamath
                                      Nov 21, 2016 at 4:04 pm
                                      Foreign tourists must have suffered due to sudden announcement of demonitisation.
                                      1. S
                                        Smart Cookie
                                        Nov 18, 2016 at 1:34 pm
                                        This is partly a fake story. I paid uber through by foreign (non-indian) credit card. It all went through nicely. Most of the places foreign credit cards were working last week when I was in India. I also withdrew cash from ATM and the lineup was really short (4-5 people).
                                        1. M
                                          Nov 24, 2016 at 6:31 am
                                          Thanks sharing your experience. Please go and share this in international media also so world will know how insensitive we are.
                                          1. M
                                            minutha karkera
                                            Nov 18, 2016 at 2:03 pm
                                            It is a paid story created by indian express raise above
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